Welcome to Finlaggan in the Isle of Islay. For centuries, this was home to Clan MacDonald and the beating heart of the Lordship of the Isles. There are two important islands in Loch Finlaggan, Eilean Mòr or big island where I'm standing, reached now by a wooden walkway and the smaller (inaccessible) Eilean na Comhairle or Council island where a mini parliament of west coast clans was held. A court of 14 sat around a great stone table, listening to disputes while MacPhee of Colonsay kept records.

This tranquil spot near the shore of Islay is Kilnave Chapel, reached by just a short walk through a field but with the ability to trasport you back in time. Unfortunately, that time wasn't quite as peaceful as today and in 1598, Kilnave played a part in the Battle of Traigh Ghruinneart, the last clan conflict on Islay. Lachlan Mor Maclean had sailed from Mull into Loch Gruinart to demand possession of the Rhinns of Islay. Understandably, the MacDonalds who lived there weren't so keen to just ha