For a long time now, gumbo has been that food for me. But when you live in New York City, many miles away from New Orleans, the chances of finding a really great bowl become fairly limited.
In a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour, stirring often, and cook to a medium-brown roux, about 30 minutes.
Gumbo was traditionally served on Carolina Gold rice. Powdered sassafras, known as "file," thickens and flavors broth. Native Americans introduced file to the French settlers whose farming ...